The movers are here again. Can I really have been working in
Washington, DC, for over a year? It seems only weeks ago that the
movers were unloading my household effects fresh from Romania. Just
as during pack out from Bucharest, friends are holding my hands
emotionally through the day. Last year it was P.E., B.D., T.J., and
several others who saw me through the day. This year it is B.N. and
D.U., respectively one of my newest and one of my oldest friends, two
persons as dissimilar as night and day but yet united in their love
and friendship for me and me for them. Together we watch my
apartment by the railroad tracks empty out. To my own surprise, even
this noisy little apartment became a home this year, the scene of
dinners with friends and family, of laughter, and of hugs. I am sad
to be leaving, but this is what we do in the Foreign Service. We are
always saying goodbye.
That was a week and a half ago. Now I sit in Maine in my little home
that is still a work in progress. Alas, the builder stretched the
truth beyond the breaking point when he promised a livable home by
the time I arrived; a completed bathroom and kitchen are still weeks
away by my guess. Still, it is my own, the only home on this planet
that is mine completely without any pretensions from any other person
or bank. Like my own life, it is a work in progress.
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CSC HST PASS Reunion Picnic |
My unplugging from Washington began the weekend before pack out. Friends from my old company, CSC, organized a reunion picnic for
those of us who had worked together for many years on the Hubble
Space Telescope (HST) PASS project. People drove from as far away as
Huntsville, AL, to spend an afternoon at a park not far from
Baltimore. Some I had seen two years ago at a lunch get-together
when I was in the US on R&R. Others I had not seen in more than
a decade. Needless to say, they had not seen me either, so this was
yet another “coming out” with old friends. Together we had put
together much of the ground systems for HST, had been through launch
and servicing mission support, and had put together a two-gyro
control mode when Hubble's gyros began to fail. Beginning the day of
the picnic and continuing through the coming two weeks, I was on a
journey of remembering and looking forward to the next phase.
With my 23-year-old station wagon fully loaded, I drove out of Takoma
Park, MD, for the last time on Thursday evening, August 14. B.N.
gave me dinner and lodging for the night. On Friday morning I was up
and out early. I drive a car so rarely that getting behind the wheel
of Hillary, my 1991 Colony Park station wagon, is a special occasion. Although a lifelong cyclist and almost exclusively a cyclist and
pedestrian while living in Washington, I'm not anti-car as such. Like everything in life, driving a car should be something done in
appropriate measure. Hillary may not be new, but she's big and
strong and attracts admiring stares wherever I go with her. Getting
behind the wheel on that Friday morning, I smiled to think that I was
at the start of a new adventure.
I had decided in advance to take the road less traveled to Maine. My
route was to be circuitous and take me places I had never been. Speed was not important. The journey itself was what counted.
|
Overlooking Harper's Ferry |
The first part of the trip was familiar. Rather than heading north
on I-95, I went first to Harper's Ferry, stopping there to do a day
hike on the Maryland Height's Trail. Is there any better view of the
confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah than from the Maryland
Heights? The song Take Me Back to Harper's Ferry by Magpie
played through my mind.
From Harper's Ferry it was westward to Little Orleans, where I stayed
for a night at my favorite Potomac Appalachian Trail Club cabin. This had been a spot of refuge for me for many years. Only two hours
from Washington, the Little Orleans cabin could be hundreds of miles
and decades away. I remember being here with my son and others from
his boy scout troop for the Leonid meteor shower in 2001. The boys
stayed up all night to watch the meteors that reached storm numbers
just before sunrise. I was there again for a week in 2004 in the
short break between my farewell at CSC and the start of my new career
at the Department of State. How well I recall that week as I said
farewell to the past and looked uncertainly to the future. I spent
several days there again in August 2007 shortly after my return from
my Moscow posting. It was during those days that I firmed my
decision to divorce, not yet knowing where that decision would lead.
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At my Favorite PATC Cabin in Little Orleans |
This time, however, my visit to Little Orleans was one of peace and
celebration. My next posting in Kazakhstan will bring new
challenges, but I have now been with the Department of State long
enough to know that I can handle all situations. I rocked in the
hammock at Little Orleans, remembered past visits at times of change
and decision, and smiled to think that I have, after so many decades
of journey, become myself. As I left, I borrowed borrowed a book, Woodswoman by Anne LaBastille, the story of a woman who built and lived in her
own cabin in the Adirondacks in the 1960s. There I am, I thought, an
aspiring woodswoman apprentice from northern Maine. (The more I read
the book, however, the more I realize the extent of Ms. LaBastille's
accomplishment that I may not be able to duplicate.)
I lingered over a long breakfast at Little Orleans on Saturday and
only finally left in the early afternoon. My next stop was not far
away, at the Paw Paw Tunnel. Here, too, I recalled earlier visits by
bike and by foot, by myself or with my son and spouse. Both the
memories and the present brought a smile. I hiked over the tunnel on
the tunnel hill trail and then returned on the C&O Canal towpath,
carefully holding the towpath railing in the dark so as not to slip.
|
Paw Paw Tunnel |
A bit further to the west and then, at Cumberland, it was time to
turn Hillary northward. It was after 6pm when I crossed the
Pennsylvania border. Where would I stay for the night? A quick look
at the AAA guide showed there to be a campground in Bedford, PA, so I
headed there. D.U. had loaned me his tent, ironically also named
Hillary as in Sir Edmund Hillary, the first to conquer Mt. Everest. Only after I had pitched the tent and gone to explore did I realize
that the entire campground had been turned into one large
fundamentalist gospel revival meeting for the weekend. I did feel a
bit out of place, to say the least, but I relaxed after an older
woman in the restroom commented that I was dressed real purdy.
Bedford was an appropriate place to stop in that U.S. Route 30, the
original Lincoln Highway, passes through there. My own journey
to the north was in the spirit of long-distance adventures undertaken
by motorists in the 1920s when travel by automobile was still new and
a night's lodging was likely to be at campgrounds. My own travel was
to the north, but I detoured briefly to drive E-W on Rt. 30 in honor
of those early adventurers. Returning via local roads to my own
northbound route on I-99, I passed a covered bridge. I truly had
traveled back in spirit to an earlier period of travel.
I stopped that afternoon in Wellsboro, PA, to hike down into the
gorge that is the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon, making friends
with and exchanging photos with another family that was doing the
same. That night I camped by a river in Owego, NY, making friends
with the family at the next campsite after losing my matches in the
dark. Dinner was black beans and rice that had come with me in the
cooler from home and that I heated over Sterno.
|
At the Rim of the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon |
On Monday, August 18, I passed through Cooperstown, NY, stopping just
long enough to buy a tee shirt for a baseball-loving friend. My own
aim was the Adirondacks, but I may have chosen my route poorly. I
was surprised by how over-developed and tourist-ed the southern
Adirondacks are. Instead of camping there for the night, I pushed on
to the Lake Champlain ferry at Ticonderoga, breathing a sigh of
relief when I got to the relaxed Vermont side. I found a quiet
campground where a young Russian woman in the US on summer work and
travel was staffing the camp store.
That evening I finally opened Peter Hopkirk's The Great Game,
a book that had been recommended to me by several people as good
background reading before going to Central Asia. There on the cover
was a quote from Jan Morris, “Peter Hopkirk is truly the laureate
of the Great Game.” I doubt there is anyone else at the Department
of State whose eyes immediately latched on to that quote. In her
earlier life prior to transitioning in the 1960s, Jan Morris had
covered the Hillary expedition up Mt. Everest. Her book Conundrum
had played a pivotal role in my
life in the 1970s, the means by which I, in the pre-Internet world,
learned that I was not alone. Now here she was again, commenting on
a book I was preparing to read as my minds turns to the next
transition in my life.
It was that evening that I
christened my car Hillary. Jan Morris and the Hillary
expedition, a tent named for Sir Edmund, and Hillary Clinton and her
role in adding gender identity to the non-discrimination policy at
the Department of State – somehow Hillary needed to be honored in
my personal life.
On Tuesday I passed through the
Green Mountains of Vermont, stopping long enough to do a short day hike on
the Long Path to Silent Ridge. By back roads and U.S. Routes, I made
my way through Montpelier and then St. Johnsbury. That was the only
place where my route intersected briefly with a previous trip, my
2010, pre-transition drive to Maine. This time, however, I headed
north and camped on Lake Francis near the Canadian border in New
Hampshire, spending some time in the morning discussing the
advantages of different tent types with another lone woman traveler
who had camped next to me.
|
Camping with Hillary |
On Wednesday I crossed into southern
Quebec, passing through Lac Megantic, the scene of a horrific train
derailment, explosion, and fire in 2013. Here, too, my path briefly
intersected with an earlier trip. In 2014 I traveled and car-camped
to upstate New York and Quebec with my spouse and five-year old son. We stopped in Lac Megantic for the night before re-entering the US
via Maine. That was my first-ever visit to Maine, and it was the
event that first planted in me the thought of moving here
permanently. I smiled at the memory of what had been one of the best
family trips of my married years. In 1994 we entered Maine in the
direction of Rangely, but this time I chose a different route through
Jackman and, from there, to Greenville and Moosehead Lake. I camped
for my last night on the road at Lily Ponds State Park, enjoying both
the stars and a wood fire.
|
Thinking of Friends in Romania |
My journey to Maine on the road less
traveled was not quite over the next morning, as I continued on to
Millinocket on what is known as the Golden Road, a private dirt road
passing through the Maine North Woods that is owned by the timber
countries. I passed lakes and streams that are accessible only on
those private roads. I stopped at Abol Bridge and admired the view
of Katahdin. I had last stood there in 2010 in the days before
departing to Romania and making the decision to make a fourth
lifetime attempt to transition.
|
On the Abol Bridge |
Hillary rolled up to my little home
that Thursday afternoon. I'm camped out in a sleeping bag in my own
home, but I have hopes that I will have water and a working bathroom
by this week's end. I've set up the furniture that I brought with me
from Maryland and unpacked my bags as best I could. I've brought myself home even if
that home is a work in progress as my builder and his helpers work
around me during the day.
That, dear readers, brings me to the
end of this phase in my life's story. N.O., a good friend and
excellent engineer, asked me at the CSC reunion picnic when I might
get around to writing about something other than what it is to be
transgender much as I used to do in chatty e-mails before
transitioning.
B.N. was a voice of conscience at my
ear through much of this year. My transition in full public view at
the U.S. Embassy in Romania has played an important role in making
life easier for other trans* employees at the Department of State. The days when an Foreign Service Officer could lose a security clearance and a career by
virtue of being trans* are over. So is my own story of what it was
like to transition as an FSO. B.N. is a great believer in making
one's garden grow. It is now time for me to take care of the garden
that is the rest of my life. Also, as Mara Keisling one remarked to
me, “Being transgender is not a career path.” It is time to move
on.
This is my final entry in
Transgender in State. Thank
you for reading and for following my journey. I hope it has been a
useful window into one woman's experience. It has been an honor to
write here and to know that what I have written is being read.
If you wish to follow my continuing
journey, I will be starting a new web journal called, simply, Robyn in State, once I am in Central
Asia. Although I will not forget LGBT issues, they will not occupy central
place. My adventure on the Silk Road is about to begin, and there
will be much to write about. Please consider yourselves welcome to
follow.
In the meantime, farewell and best
wishes to all my readers. May your own journeys bring you to peace,
fulfillment, and much love. Robyn has found hers as she completes
her transition journey, bringing herself home.